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    #46
    No guarantee, but I *may* have a thermostat housing. Might take me a day or three to hunt it down.
    '89 Hawk a.k.a. The RallyHawk (my son's now!) | '89 Hawk a.k.a. The Deuce | Spare Parts/Dented Learner Bike | '13 Tacoma | '69 Falcon (currently getting reassembled! )

    I've spent most of my money on women, beer, cars and motorcycles. The rest of it I just wasted.

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      #47
      No rush. This ones a slow burner. Much appreciated!

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        #48
        https://www.ebay.com/itm/779-09-12-H...MAAOSwM6VcZIYh
        Put a fill at the radiator.You'll need to burp it like a race bike.

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          #49
          Originally Posted by behindthetimes View Post
          https://www.ebay.com/itm/779-09-12-H...MAAOSwM6VcZIYh
          Put a fill at the radiator.You'll need to burp it like a race bike.
          I assume you are saying dont worry about a thermostat, is why you are suggesting that fill neck?

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            #50
            Yes...temp guage and a fan.

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              #51
              Ive got a temp gauge with the Vapor. I ran without a fan on the 700cc motor for a few months. Started getting warm out and thought I better jump on getting the fan wired in. The only time it came on is when I made it just to make sure it all works. So at least with the ZX radiators I know the fan isnt needed. Id say doubly say on the stock engine.Only time it goes over 190 really is when i turn it off. Im not sure about the thermostat though. Im a Lb hound like you usually, up to a dollar amount, but I think I will retain the thermostat. It does take up alot of space though and is a complete afterthought on its positioning.

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                #52
                I ran the red bike w/o a fan....even when idling a 20" box fan in front of it would be enough to cool it.zx636 radiator.SPAL 5" pullers are about $50 details 003.JPG

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                  #53
                  stop and go commute traffic is the only time my bikes get hot... just sitting at idle and no airflow... so it depends more on what you use the bike... I don't know how much more efficiently a size_x radiator works when sitting compared to the stock hawk... without airflow the difference is probably measured in seconds-to-boil vice hours

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                    #54
                    Originally Posted by nozzle View Post
                    without airflow the difference is probably measured in seconds-to-boil vice hours
                    I have spent a LOT of time on hot pit on a total loss fan-less 700 race bike that i cant/don't want to shut off. In the dead of summer i have sat for quite a few min and been ok. Id say 5+ min before i chose to shut him off and take the risk the battery had another start and whole race in it. That is with a bigger rad (usually zx7, or that yamaha quad one behindthetimes made me), but still no airflow. And this is sitting in a hot nasty pack of 30 other idling fan-less race bikes.

                    You may be surprised.
                    Last edited by 6; 3 Weeks Ago.
                    Don't spend money and buy, spend time and learn.

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                      #55
                      No doubt 6, my point wasn’t that a bike couldn’t idle, but that the size of the radiator - stock, Zx-10, GSXR, or other wouldn’t make much difference, airflow would. I am not always that great at expressing what I mean, but have little fear of trying.

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                        #56
                        Shiny!
                        20190704_135508.jpg

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                          #57
                          So I wetsanded the other day 1000-2000 and have some spots im hoping I just missed that I need to go back over again. Look about right to anyone? Spots in the glare are the ones of concern. I think its salvageable but fear I may need another coat. Seems a little thinner around the filler neck, and I didnt spend too much sanding there. This is where most of the spotting is, which is why I presume its from not enough sanding. This is about 3 cans of primer and 2 cans of paint. No clear yet. No buffing or cutting or anything. Paints been dry about 2 weeks.
                          20190711_075354.jpg
                          Last edited by mparker; 1 Week Ago.

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                            #58
                            Edit: re-read post.

                            You should be fine to move on to clear.
                            Don't spend money and buy, spend time and learn.

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                              #59
                              Those spots are just a little bit of orange peal correct?

                              Careful sanding there. VERY easy to sand thought on that ridge.
                              Don't spend money and buy, spend time and learn.

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                                #60
                                Originally Posted by 6 View Post
                                Those spots are just a little bit of orange peal correct?

                                Careful sanding there. VERY easy to sand thought on that ridge.
                                I guess. You cant feel them or anything if thats what you mean. Theyre basically all around the fuel lip where I was being careful. Ive already learned how easy it is to sand through there! $50 to get one can to my door if it needs another round! I think next time I will stick to the best Rustoleum match I can find. What I dont understand still is, should the paint be perfect before I clear? Ive seen so many conflicting comments on whether you color sand at all. In my head, the clear is like, if I wrapped the tank with clear vinyl. Like my paint should be in the condition I want it to be before I clear. But I've seen other opinions like, the Clear is just a window sort of. So as long as the finish of the window is smooth you will just see red underneath no matter what the finish was of the red coat. If that makes any sense...Trying my best to use my words I swear!

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