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Jackal's wannabe race build

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    Jackal's wannabe race build

    I bought a '90 Hawk that sat for 20 years. My plan is to have a track bike that I can take to AHRMA races in my area (Roebling and CMP).

    Here is what I have to start with:
    Jackal GT.jpg
    My plan is to put the airtech fairing kit on it, with Woodcraft rearset and clipons.
    Sadly, since it sat for so long, I haven't even got to start it yet. Lots of work ahead of me - not even sure where to start yet; still just taking it all in.

    #2
    From the picture, the bike looks great. The tank looks good and I can't see the absence of any stock part.

    If you were looking for a support group you're barking up the wrong tree. This place is fulla enablers dude. - Shooter77us

    The bitterness of low quality lingers long after the thrill of a low price has gone. - RacerX450

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      #3
      Sitting for 20 years? Start with changing all the fuel lines and filter, clean the carbs, change the oil and filter, and give her a fresh battery. Hard to kill a hawk motor and basic maintenance when ll spring her back to life.
      Flock of Hawks | '13 Tacoma | '69 Falcon (currently getting reassembled!)
      I've spent most of my money on women, beer, cars and motorcycles. The rest of it I just wasted.

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        #4
        They are great track bikes! I currently own 2 of them. I would do what Falcon69 suggested first. Then get your suspension set up for the track invest in the bike set up first then go with your cosmetics. Good luck

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          #5
          Be prepared for a struggle with the carb boots that connect the carb to the engine.
          I, too, am fixing up a 20-year-sitting Hawk, so I just went through this.
          It took me quite a bit of work getting the carbs off. I'd say go ahead and order new boots now.

          Good luck!

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            #6
            Originally Posted by lamelylounges View Post
            a struggle with the carb boots that connect the carb to the engine
            Exactly what I was attempting this evening - without success. Any tips?

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              #7
              Heat gun or pour hot water on them.

              And as you're pulling them off, twist them clockwise.

              And if they still don't budge, cut them.

              If you were looking for a support group you're barking up the wrong tree. This place is fulla enablers dude. - Shooter77us

              The bitterness of low quality lingers long after the thrill of a low price has gone. - RacerX450

              Comment


                #8
                Originally Posted by ParcNHawk View Post
                Heat gun or pour hot water on them.

                And as you're pulling them off, twist them clockwise.

                And if they still don't budge, cut them.
                Pry bar against the frame is also a decent help. Never cracked a body doing that, but that would be possible with a big enough pry bar and a stuck enough carb.
                ​​
                And

                Roebling huh?? Awesome!!! First track I ever rode on, assuming you don't count to closed down Hutchinson Island track which was still rideable when I lived in sav...Got my first license through the Frank Kinsey road race school.

                Memories yo.

                Hawk would be good for that track.


                Keep us up to date. What's the game plan for the build?

                And WELCOME !!
                Don't spend money and buy, spend time and learn.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally Posted by ParcNHawk View Post
                  And if they still don't budge, cut them.
                  Alas, it was destructive carb removal that was resorted to... The carb boots were rock solid and not malleable at all.

                  Hoses on the carbs were also victims of destructive disassembly. Cammed out one screw on the float bowls (yes, using my JIS driver). Finally got it opened to be greeted by some disgusting varnish...
                  PXL_20221117_011345272.jpg

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                    #10
                    I was able to get my boots to soften up just enough by using a hair dryer on them.

                    Those carbs have quite a dark funk. Woof.

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                      #11
                      Upon recommendation from pro bike mechanic friend, I have bought a cheap (sort of) ultrasonic cleaner from Jeff Bezos. Will have some before and after pics of the carb cleaning.

                      The removal continues, with me trying not to be too destructive as I keep going. Found this very interesting...
                      Screen Shot 2022-11-17 at 9.37.03 PM.pngLeft is the front pads (original, still have the nissin branding on them) and the rear, also original... Someone was clearly in the "rear brake only" camp.
                      Rear brake fluid reservoir was completely dry and what little fluid I did pull was a nasty dark brown.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally Posted by JackalHack View Post
                        Upon recommendation from pro bike mechanic friend, I have bought a cheap (sort of) ultrasonic cleaner from Jeff Bezos. Will have some before and after pics of the carb cleaning.

                        The removal continues, with me trying not to be too destructive as I keep going. Found this very interesting...
                        Screen Shot 2022-11-17 at 9.37.03 PM.pngLeft is the front pads (original, still have the nissin branding on them) and the rear, also original... Someone was clearly in the "rear brake only" camp.
                        Rear brake fluid reservoir was completely dry and what little fluid I did pull was a nasty dark brown.
                        must have rode a HD before
                        Gino
                        Chain Roller

                        NEVER UNDERESTIMATE THE PREDICTABILITY OF STUPIDITY

                        2012 CCS LRRS ULSB Champion
                        2012 CCS LRRS P89 Champion
                        2008 CCS ULSB National Champion
                        LRRS HAWK GT Racer CCS Expert #929
                        ECK RACING

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                          #13
                          I want/need to treat some rust on the subframe - I have seen a few folks mentioning power coating which is under consideration. What I need to know is how to remove the seat lock/helmet lock from the subframe. I (with my old eyes) thought that there were two square nuts holding this on... Yeah, those are welded on...

                          How have others done this? Just drilled out the screws that have no driving area on them?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally Posted by JackalHack View Post
                            I want/need to treat some rust on the subframe - I have seen a few folks mentioning power coating which is under consideration. What I need to know is how to remove the seat lock/helmet lock from the subframe. I (with my old eyes) thought that there were two square nuts holding this on... Yeah, those are welded on...

                            How have others done this? Just drilled out the screws that have no driving area on them?
                            Originally they are installed with break-off bolts for security. With a fresh set of small vise-grips I can usually get a good bite (on the front) and get them to loosen. I have also used a small chisel to start a wedge, then start tapping in the counter-clockwise direction. Maybe start soaking them now with something and carefully introduce some heat.
                            "I couldn't afford NOT to buy it!"

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally Posted by JackalHack View Post

                              How have others done this? Just drilled out the screws that have no driving area on them?
                              That's what I did.

                              Attached Files
                              ASMA #139

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