88 Blue partialy dissasembled project on Vancouver Island

[Danster]

Just picked up my first Hawk I'm on a budget so a non running bike is all I could afford. Lots of things are partially done or just need reinstalling or cleaning it has a few mods done already and I think a solid place to start.
Going to start by lots of cleaning and assembling what I can plus all fluids. Will need new tires and a battery as well. Fuel tank is dented and missing the fuel cap. I'd like to get it up and running and ride it this year and maybe fix the cosmetic issues over the winter.

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[Captain 80s]

Looks like how I picked up my project Hawk. Good luck!

Seems like a pretty damn good starting point though!

[69Falcon]

Put together a list of what you need and post it in the classifieds section. Odds are, most of what you need is floating around. Gascapdude.com has caps if you don’t mind not having to use a key. Over time his black anodizing turns into more of a bronze.

[JackalHack]

I have a habit of buying non-running, partially assembled motorcycles..
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I heard somewhere that one can buy pre-assembled, ready to ride motorcycles...

May need to look into that at some point...

[squirrelman]

since the engine is the main item, i'd suggest assessing its health with a compression test.

[Danster]

Thanks for the responses.
Compression test is on the list after I assemble the handle bar controls and find a battery. I like the puzzle of putting it back together but that is much easier if I was the one who took it apart.(looks like I might need to find a bunch of hardware that seams to be missing) I like the stock fuel cap even if I don't need much of a key.

[Danster]

Front cylinder 155psi and rear 148psi.
Starter works
Has spark
Oil press light and sensor work
Neutral light works.

Still working on the carbs and left hand switch assembly.
Fuel tank petcock needs love, reserve standpipe is missing and fuel filter in tank needs replacing.

[Danster]

I managed to get it to fire tonight it's going to sound great.
The fuel pump doesn't seam to be running.

Could someone tell me how tall the reserve standpipe is above the fuel valve, its missing and would like to have a reserve function on y fuel valve.

[bk94si]

I managed to get it to fire tonight it's going to sound great.
The fuel pump doesn't seam to be running.

Could someone tell me how tall the reserve standpipe is above the fuel valve, its missing and would like to have a reserve function on y fuel valve.

I would buy a new one. They are still available. Old petcocks are sometimes a problem - leaking, clogged, missing the screen.

[BillnOroville]

You might go to an online parts store and look at the schematics of what makes up a section and know what is there or not there. Revzilla or Hondapartsnation comes to mind. Handy for taking things apart if you don't have the service manual.

[rpcraft]

There is also the service manual we have online here: https://www.hawkgtforum.com/forum/ho...ance-manual-v2

[Danster]

Well I got it to run new battery carb boots and float bowl gaskets. It ran OK for about 5 minutes then seamed to miss one cylinder I'm thinking possibly one float seat and needle might be leaking.
Also it came wit a factory jet kit not 100% sure what to install. Engine internals stock(I think) uni-filters and fuel exhaust.

[rpcraft]

if you have pod filters and it came that way and was running it should already be rejetted but if not then it needs to be. The factory Pro 3.0 kit should have the jets in it needed already. If it runs and a rejet and adjustable needle has not been done then it will probably not run or maybe barely idle and also run terribly and die when you try to give it any throttle. The exhaust really doesn't anything until you do a lot of engine work and all the special sauce Hord can pour into a Hawk mill so if it is noisy feel free to switch back to stock because the can won't affect your jetting.

You can check your float height while inspecting the inlet valve and it should be set at 9.2mm. I would say check the jetting database but I already did it for you and you will probably end up running a 165/162 (front/rear) depending on your elevation and I would start there because it is rich tune but also safe and you may not make the most power but the bike should not struggle to run. If you get it running and stable you can try and dial it back some but you have to do it by feel without a dyno or other tuning tools. You can get it running and then check clean, regap, and do plug inspections and go from there. Go with 2.5 turns out on your "air screw" and put the adjustable clip on the 3rd positon of the needle (from the factory pro kit).

Also, while you are there go ahead and make sure the slow jets are stock 42's. 45's will just trash your overall mpg's from what I have noticed most people report. Once you get that done you should be ready to go ride unless you have something bad somewhere or did something incorrectly.

Hope this helps sum up your steps forward.